This is the first liquid cooling system in a bulb that is patented in the market. Basic parameters: 12 watts, 800 lumens, 67 lumens / watt, 80 + CRI.
The light bulb will inevitably increase the heat, and the large amount of heat emitted will be effective, and you want to dissipate as efficiently as possible. The relatively cool glass tells me that the metal heat sink is kept in the heat and forced to pass through.
The light bulb will inevitably increase the heat, and the large amount of heat emitted will be effective, and you want to dissipate as efficiently as possible. The relatively cool glass tells me that the metal heat sink is kept in the heat and forced to pass through.
The bulb is bound to make heat, and you want to dissipate as efficiently as possible. The relatively cool glass tells me that the metal heat sink is kept in the heat and forced to pass through.
Any heat generated from the bulb is wasted by wasted energy. Any bulb manufacturer wants to do any heat from any bulb. It costs more money for consumers and is a fire hazard. The light looks a bit white, for me.. I have been buying all these 60 watt equivalent LED bulbs because they came out a few years ago. (Maybe the museum collection will start laughing one day). I have to say that I think Philip is the best from fat. If you are looking for a nice warm up 2700K light. Almost all the rest is too pale, flashing quickly, bothering your eyes, after a while. The visitors to my house all said the same. A friend said that my front cross led lights made him seasick.
I can't use the LED bulbs before I can enclose the ceiling fixtures (I have a lot of Phillips's, they are too expensive to burn out!) - This is great, I can now run these fully enclosed devices. Great review - I bought a few of these today!
Sometime soon I will upload a VID LED array I put together. It has 12 10W LED panels that are thermally bonded to a large CPU heatsink with a cooling fan on the back.
Each LED panel is about 5/8" 5/8" and announces 800 lumens (I think it's more like 700).
I have a thyristor type dimmer that is connected to it, with a small series transformer (as an induction coil for smoothing the light pulse when the dimmer is turned low).
It's at least 8,400 at full brightness :)
You talk about the lack of heat from the LEDs of the bulb and the liquid part... but I am curious as to whether the part is clear and the screw base may actually be a thermal radiation environment. Do you check the area?
If you do this, I will encourage you to get an infrared thermometer that reports the heat generated by the various bulbs.
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